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Might this be the forgotten pearl in South America’s jewelry box? Uruguay is a rolling landscape of vines, estancias (ranches) and quiet fishing towns huddled beneath old lighthouses.

It is difficult to understand why so many travellers overlook the country, possessed as it is of such intriguing, contrasting charms as those of louchely glamorous Punta del Este and quaint, cobbled Colonia del Sacramento, where low-slung paintbox houses gaze out towards Buenos Aires, blinking across the Río de la Plata. Inland, gaucho country spreads out with cinematic glory – Uruguay shares a border with Argentina. Ride out with the ranchers beneath skies as blue as the kit of La Celesta, the near-sacred national football team. Then there is the elegant capital, Montevideo, alive with the sultry sounds of tango at the legendary Teatro Solis and the fragrant sizzle of parrilla grills at the Mercado del Puerto, its bars well stocked with bottles of Lavalleja red.

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