A Wild Time in Costa Rica

History lingers in the Central Valley: founded in the 16th century, Heredia still impresses with its feast of traditional architecture, from its grand, palm-dotted squares to the country’s oldest, most ornate churches. Though refreshingly laid-back, the town runs on caffeine: some of Costa Rica’s most treasured coffee-growing country rises around Heredia, where, up in the hills, black gold is grown, harvested, roasted and brewed, its rich scents wafting on volcanic mists.  

At the heart of the Central Valley, Turrialba towers as the region’s chimney, a brooding peak prone to smoking fits of rage. Its lush slopes still bristle with cloud forest, groves of tropical fruit trees and sugar cane plantations, while in its verdant shadow lies the town of Turrialba itself: a launchpad for adventures in the Costa Rican heartland, from horseback riding and waterfall swimming to thrilling raft rides along the Pacuare River. 

Of all Costa Rica’s volcanoes, none are as handsome as Arenal: the perfect cone, wreathed with cloud. Infamously active, Arenal only finished ejecting his fiery contents in 2010; while the spectacular red rivers of lava no longer flow, the area remains a highlight of any Costa Rican adventure: hot springs bubble up across the region and forests still teem with wildlife, flowers blooming in the mist. Stay in La Fortuna, a tiny rural town beneath the summit of Arenal, amid its pretty palette of greens. 

Welcome to the tropics, a riot of color and noise, where hummingbirds dip their bills into honey-scented blooms and sloths hang from the trees. Though small, this national park teems with life, gleaming as one of the most biodiverse and scenic corners of the country. Listen for the call of titi monkeys and look for tiny, jeweled frogs in the trees… or forget about it all on the park’s spectacular, boulder-dotted beaches, where Pacific waves kiss the castaway sands.